Recipes

French Onion Soup
French onion soup is one of the classic French bistro dishes, famously served to late night Parisian partygoers. But if you don't feel up to it at 2am or whenever you roll in, it makes a warming supper for a chilly winter evening.
If you want to make more of a meal of it follow it with a large plate of charcuterie (sliced saucisson, air dried ham and hunks of pate or rillettes) served with cornichons and crusty bread.
The critical thing is to cook the onions long enough, use some good stock and use a substantial densely textured bread, preferably a day or two old.
Serves 4-6
1 slightly stale sourdough baguette or other densely textured loaf
2-3 large mild onions (about 700g in total), peeled and finely sliced
2 tbsp olive oil
50g butter
1 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp of dried thyme
A glass of dry white wine (about 150ml)
1.25 litres beef, chicken, turkey or vegetable stock ideally home made or at a pinch made with organic stock cubes
125g mature Gruyere cheese, rinded and coarsely grated
Salt, pepper and, if you need it, a few drops of vinegar
Preheat an oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Cut the bread into thickish slices (about 2 cm) and lay them on a baking tray. Bake for about 15-25 minutes until crisp and lightly browned, then set aside. Meanwhile peel and finely slice the onions. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof casserole, add the butter and tip in the onions. Stir so they’re thoroughly coated and leave on a low to moderate heat, stirring them occasionally until they go a rich, deep brown. This may take up to 40 minutes, depending how wet or dry your onions are. Add a little sugar once they start to brown and stir more regularly. You don’t want to burn them. Once they’re a good colour, stir in thyme and wine and let it bubble up and reduce by half then add the stock. Bring back to the boil and simmer for about 20-25 minutes. Check for seasoning adding salt and pepper to taste and a few drops of vinegar if you think it tastes too sweet.
Preheat a grill and lay the slices of baked bread over the surface of the casserole, pressing them down lightly into the soup. Scatter over the grated cheese and brown it under a grill for about 5-10 minutes until well browned and bubbling.
What to drink
Given this soup is supposed to be a restorative antidote to overindulgence you don't really need wine with it as well as in it. But a glass of aligoté, chablis or muscadet would be perfect.
For other soup pairings see Matching wine and soup
The photograph by By Natalia Lisovskaya at shutterstock.com is of a French onion soup but not the one in the recipe.

Five-spice smoked tofu nuggets
Tofu has never been my favourite ingredient to be honest but these brilliant smoked tofu 'nuggets' from my friend Elly Curshen's book Let's Eat are positively addictive.
Elly writes: These things are ridiculously delicious and I can't recommend them enough. They're great on the end of skewers and dipped into the satay sauce as party food. But if you don't want to serve this as a canapé the cubes of tofu are delicious on a bed of brown rice with some pok choy and the sauce drizzled over the top. (I actually served it with a crunchy vegetable salad based on the noodle salad in Elly's book. I'm not giving the recipe for that so you have to buy it!)
The tofu you choose is important. You want to look for one that comes as a big, solid, wet cube and nearly always in a cardboard box. The recipe requires this soft, wet kind to create the steam inside the crust that makes it puff up.
Make the dressing first so the nuggets stay nice and crisp.
Note: this recipe contains peanuts
Five-spice smoked tofu nuggets
Vegetarian, vegan.
Makes 8 (although I cut them slightly smaller to make 16. That might serve 4 at a pinch though don't bank on it)
1 x 225g box of smoked tofu
2 tbsp cornflour
¼ tsp Chinese five-spice powder
a large pinch of smoked paprika
300ml vegetable oil
2–4 tbsp Satay Dressing (see below)
flaked sea salt
Lay the block of tofu on a few sheets of kitchen paper. Fold another sheet of kitchen paper and use to press down gently on the top to absorb the moisture.
Cut the tofu up into 8 (or 16) equal-sized cubes. Put the cornflour in a shallow bowl, add the five-spice powder and paprika and mix well. Toss the tofu cubes in the spiced cornflour until they are dusted on all sides.
Pour the vegetable oil into a wok and place over a high heat. Once hot, shake off any excess flour then very carefully lower each nugget into the hot oil using a slotted spoon or tongs. Deep-fry, turning regularly (and very carefully), for 4–5 minutes until all sides are golden brown and crisp. Remove the tofu from the pan using a slotted spoon or tongs and drain on kitchen paper.
Sprinkle the cubes with flaked sea salt while they are still hot – this helps to keep them crispy. Put them on to skewers and serve with the dressing for dipping.
Satay dressing
Makes 6 portions
1 tsp light soft brown sugar
2 tsp lime juice
4 tbsp peanut butter (smooth or chunky is fine, and I actually find the cheaper, bog-standard versions work best)
3 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp soy sauce
1¼ tbsp vegetable, sunflower or rapeseed oil
1¼ tbsp Sriracha (or more to taste)
2 tbsp sesame oil
Dissolve the sugar in the lime juice, then put it into a blender with all the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth. Taste and adjust as you see fit. That’s it. Once made, it will keep fine in the fridge in a jar for ages.
What to drink
The sauce is more important than the nuggets when it comes to finding a pairing. Winewise I'm thinking an off-dry riesling or young semillon. A medium-dry cider would also be good.
Elly Pear's Let's Eat is published by Harper Collins at £20.You might also like to try Elly's Smoked Salmon and Radish Salad from her first book, Fast Days and Feast Days.

Salmon burgers with goats cheese and sundried tomatoes
Burgers don't have to be beefy as these delicious salmon burgers from my book An Appetite for Ale prove, inspired by browsing the aisles of the Wholefoods market in Denver during the Great American Beer Festival a few years back!
Serves 3-6, depending how hungry you are
450g skinless filleted salmon, cut into chunks
80g young, unrinded goats cheese
4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
80g Sunblush* or other roasted dried tomatoes in oil, finely chopped
A handful of fresh basil leaves
40g natural dried breadcrumbs
Salt, freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of paprika
Oil for frying or coating the burgers
Chop the salmon finely or pulse 4 or 5 times in a food processor. Break up the goats cheese with a fork and add it to the salmon along with the chopped spring onions and Sunblush tomatoes. Mix well or pulse again (keeping some texture - you don’t want to reduce the mixture to a paste)
Finely chop the basil and add along with the breadcrumbs. Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of paprika, mix again and set the mixture aside for half an hour for the breadcrumbs to soften and absorb the moisture.
Divide and pat out into six burgers. Fry in a little oil or rub both sides with oil and barbecue over an indirect heat for about 6-7 minutes turning once or twice during the cooking process. Or grill or fry them - that's fine too. I quite like them on their own with salad and a salsa but you could put them in a bap or bun with lime-flavoured mayo, sliced cucumber and shredded lettuce.
What to drink: A Blonde or golden ale or lager pairs well with these burgers or you could drink a Chardonnay.
Photograph © Vanessa Courtier

Prawn, lime, peanut and herb rice noodles
If you've always thought cooking for yourself is a bit dispiriting buy Signe Johansen's book Solo which is full of delicious and inspiring recipes like this zingy pad thai-ish dish of prawn noodles.
Signe writes: This is a super dish to rustle up when you’re tired and hungry - it takes just minutes to prepare and can be eaten either hot or at room temperature. An ice-cold beer alongside wouldn’t go amiss, but a glass of green or jasmine tea also makes an excellent accompaniment.
WARNING: this recipe includes peanuts
Serves 1 (generously. It would easily stretch to two FB)
100g thick or thin rice noodles
vegetable or sunflower oil, for frying
150g raw shelled prawns (or defrosted frozen ones)
1–2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 spring onion, thinly sliced
small bunch of mint and/or coriander, roughly chopped
1 small carrot, coarsely grated or cut into ribbons with a vegetable peeler
small handful of salted peanuts, roughly crushed
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
lime wedge, to serve (optional)
For the sauce
grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed limes
1 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp soft light brown sugar or palm sugar
1 red chilli, finely diced
1 garlic clove, finely grated
Combine the ingredients for the sauce in a bowl.
Cook the rice noodles according to the packet instructions until al dente, drain,
toss them in the sauce and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat a little oil in a skillet or frying pan over a medium heat, add the prawns and fry for a few minutes until golden-pink and opaque – remove them from the pan as soon as they’re done so they don’t become tough. Add the garlic, chilli and spring onion to the same pan once you’ve removed the prawns and fry gently for a couple of minutes, then remove the pan from the heat and return the prawns to the pan so all the flavours blend.
Serve the noodles in a shallow pasta bowl or on a dinner plate and scatter over the prawns, herbs, carrot and crushed peanuts. Season to taste and add a lime wedge, if you wish.
Variation: Feel free to add other vegetables such as chopped pepper, broccoli or beansprouts (raw or cooked). I sometimes like to add edamame beans, broad beans and grated courgette, too.
What to drink: I had a bottle of Japanese koshu wine open which went perfectly but a dry riesling or grüner veltliner would also be delicious
Extracted from Solo by Signe Johansen published by Bluebird Books at £16.99. Photograph © Patricia Niven.

Artichoke and preserved lemon dip
This brilliant storecupboard dip was taught to me by my friend cookery writer Trish Deseine who rustled it up in no time when I was staying with her recently.
I’ve made it - or roughly how I think she made it - twice since then and everyone has loved it
You need to be flexible about the quantities which will vary depending on the ingredients you’re using. Keep tasting!
Serves 4-6
30g mature parmesan cheese, broken into chunks
1 large clove of garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
a small (around 290g) jar of grilled artichoke hearts, drained and roughly chopped or about 175g loose grilled artichokes from a deli
1 small or 1/2 larger preserved lemon, pulp and pips removed and chopped
A small handful of parsley leaves - about 10g - roughly chopped + a few extra parsley leaves to decorate
Extra virgin olive oil - about 100ml
Good squeeze of lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the parmesan and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the consistency of coarse crumbs. Add the drained artichokes, the preserved lemon peel and parsley and whizz again. Gradually add the olive oil in a steady stream until the mixture reaches a dippable consistency. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Spoon into a bowl or onto a plate and sprinkle with extra parsley. Serve with pitta bread, breadsticks or crisp Italian-style flatbread.
What to drink: artichokes are supposed to be tricky with wine but I’ve already found two that pair well: a citrussy sauvignon blanc and a verdicchio. Other dry Italian whites would work too.
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